St. Louis: One of the most underrated and perfect destinations with kids.

Why Visit St. Louis

We have been to cities all over the world and l would honestly put St. Louis at the very top of the list of cities to visit with kids. I am trying to think of any other city I would put above it and there is none. The variety of things to do in St. Louis coupled with its affordability and ease of navigation makes it a fun and easily accessible destination with kids. Not only are there tons of activities catered towards kids there, but it is also culturally acceptable and even expected that you bring your kids everywhere. Because a lot of the tourist destinations in St. Louis were funded by philanthropic donations from the Busch family, many of the major attractions are TOTALLY FREE. I’m not kidding. I mean TOTALLY FREE!. When we lived in St. Louis, we took full advantage of this and would just pop into the zoo for a couple hours and happily spend the whole time at the reptile house or watching the hippos bobble around without any pressure to “get our money’s worth”. It is fantastic. The City Museum isn’t one of the free spots but it is a worthy destination on its own and second only to Petra on my personal list of coolest man-made places on earth. The culinary scene in St Louis is also well-suited to children, involving accessible Italian and classic American culinary traditions. The sports teams are fun to watch with a zealous fan base and the arch is a quintessent American monument. We lived in St Louis for 6 years while our kids were between the ages of 0 and 10 and everyone is always excited to go back. If I have piqued your interest or, better yet, convinced you to plan a trip, read on for all the info you’ll need to plan your stay.

A note on safety: St. Louis has an unfair reputation for being a dangerous city. The crime stats in St. Louis are based on the population within the city limits alone, which is only about 280,000. That means the crime stats are artificially elevated when you look at per capita statistics since the greater metro area has a population of about 2.8 million. Don’t get me wrong, there are parts of St. Louis you should avoid (in general, the northern portions). If you follow my recommendations, I will not send you to any of those places. Overall, we felt safe living in St. Louis and I wouldn’t let this reputation deter you from visiting.

An fun evening at Busch Stadium watching the St Louis Cardinals with the family.

Where to stay:

Just south of forest park: I personally prefer this option. It is centrally located and easy to navigate with quick access to I-64. It also puts you near the zoo, the science center, the art museum, the history museum, and my favorite coffee shop (Comet coffee).

The Cheshire Inn:

This is my number one pick. It is a quaint boutique hotel with a family friendly vibe and central location. People actually hang out in the lobby here and it has a refreshing community, Cheers type of feel on the inside. It is also affordable and has several room options. There is a real Starbucks on site if nearby Comet coffee isn’t open and they have a surprisingly good free breakfast.

Hampton Inn on Forest Park:

Nothing special here but the location is great, they have a pool, and you can walk to Comet coffee ;)

There are lots of Airbnb options near forest park as well. If you have a larger party or want the option of cooking some of your own meals, this may be the option for you.

Central West End:

The CWE is the area immediately adjacent to Barnes Jewish Hospital and on the eastern border of Forest Park. This is where many young health professionals live and it has a more upscale urban feel. There is a Whole Foods in the CWE and many of the more trendy restaurants are located here. The CWE is a walkable neighborhood, the location is very central (as the name suggests) and it is close to I-64. It can be a little more congested and harder to navigate/park than the options listed above but is still a good choice.

Chase Park Plaza:

Four star hotel with a great location and views of forest park.

Great Airbnb options in this neighborhood.

Downtown:

To be honest, I have never stayed downtown. There are more hotel options downtown than near forest park or in the CWE and this would put you close to the cardinal’s stadium, the arch, and the city museum. While downtown is busy during major events, it can feel a little dead otherwise. It is also more difficult to navigate than other areas. This would be a good option if you plan to do more downtown activities and don’t plan on driving much.

Clayton:

Clayton is the financial district in St. Louis. Once you pass downtown St. Louis, you will see a second set of skyscrapers to the west. This is Clayton. Clayton is one of the most desirable St. Louis neighborhoods. It is very safe and walkable. It is also still relatively close to most of the major St. Louis attractions. There are tons of great restaurants in Clayton and Shaw Park is a beautiful green space/playground. The only downside is the cost and you will be doing a little more driving if you stay here. If you are on a budget, Clayton probably isn’t your best pick. If you want a very safe and family friendly spot, it could be good for you.

Ritz Carlton:

Convenient location, great service, and delicious brunch.

Other areas that are a little outside of the box but still good neighborhoods with a central location: Tower Grove South (near Tower Grove park, which is my personal favorite), Shaw (near the Botanical Gardens), The Grove, University City/The loop.

When to visit:

St. Louis gets oppressively hot and humid in the summer and very cold in the winter. While you can still plan a predominantly inside trip during one of these seasons, there are many activities that won’t be as pleasant during the extreme cold and hot temps. As a result, September-November and March-early June are the best times to visit.

The City Museum entrance

Things to do:

The City Museum:

If your kids are 4 or older, do not miss The City Museum. I have tried to adequately explain it many times and I just can’t. It is a 600,000 square foot former shoe warehouse that was bought by a millionaire and turned into an interactive art space/10 story playground. It is a constant work in progress and there is something new there every time we visit.

The giant whale on the first floor of the City museum that leads to the tunnels. A great place to start your exploration.

There is an indoor cave system, massive treehouse, aquarium, skate park, hundreds of tunnels to explore, 10 story slide, airplane welded to the side of the building, circus, school bus on top of the building, and so much more. In order to fully take in The City Museum, you will need at least 3 hours and you will need to crawl and climb. Wear comfortable clothes and shoes and seriously consider knee pads.

A room full a dizzying chairs that never tip but always feel like they are going to.

Once our kids were 10 and older, we let them explore each area on their own with a designated meeting spot. Before then, we followed them through every nook and cranny. While we let Gus lead us around the tunnels starting at age 2, it is best suited for older children and adults who still play like children ;). Seriously, don’t skip The City Museum.

Gus climbing from the cock pit of an old airplane through the cage like tunnels suspended stories high off the building.

The Zoo:

I love the St. Louis Zoo. It is consistently rated one of the best in the world and it is. The animal enclosures are well maintained and the animals seem well-cared for and healthy. It is also FREE! You can just walk right in. There are two paid parking lots (east and west). If you are lucky, you can sometimes find free parking in Forest park. Or you can grab a Lyft or Uber. It is also walkable from The Cheshire Inn. We love the reptile house, hippos, sea lion tunnel, and penguins. The kids zoo is also a nice stop for younger kids (ages 2-10). Give yourself half a day here.

The Missouri Botanical Garden lily pond during the Whitaker Music Festival.

The Missouri Botanical Gardens:

I almost put this second. The children’s garden at the MO Botanical Gardens is an active child’s paradise. It promotes interactive play and I can only fantasize about how much I would have loved this place as a kid. There are huge tree houses, a full farmer’s market for pretend play and so much more. If the weather is right, this is a must visit. The botanical gardens are also absolutely lovely. Visit when the azaleas are in bloom or take a walk around the Japanese gardens and lake, stopping to feed the coy fish on the bridge.

Gus getting up close and personal to the large coy in the ponds of the Missouri Botanical Garden.

There are beautiful old trees and fountains all around the gardens. If you happen to time it right, go for the Whitaker Music festival in the summer when the gardens are open for free and you can pack a picnic and listen to free music. The Christmas lights are also magical if you visit during the holiday season.

Magic House:

This is a mansion that was turned into a multi-story playhouse for kids. There is an entire kids village inside, equipped with multiple pretend play areas, including a grocery store, mechanic, library, veterinary clinic, pizza restaurant, and fishing stream. The slides, water area, and bubble room are other favorites. The Magic House is best for ages 2-9.

Gus operating “heavy machinery” at the Magic House in St. Louis.

Science Center:

This is another great free option. It is fairly standard compared to other Science centers we have visited but the kids always love it. The exhibits here change pretty often and it is a great indoor option.

The kids peering over St. Louis from the observatory of the St. Louis Arch.

The Arch:

Designated by FDR as a park in 1935 and finally constructed in 1965, this is a beautiful iconic National Monument. I just love the way it frames the city skyline as you drive in from the east. The trip to the top in the old-school pods is worth it and a totally unique experience.

A St. Louis Cardinals Game with the Arch in the background.

Cardinals or Blues game:

St. Louis is a great sports city. The fans are loyal and slightly raucous. The ballpark is beautiful on a summer evening and both events are totally worth it if you like sports.

Forest Park:

Bigger than Central Park in New York, Forest Park houses the Art museum, the Muny, and the History Museum. We love Art Hill, which is a beautiful open space for running and picnicking. There are streams and ponds and walking paths galore with so many quaint little quiet spaces to escape.

A run down Art Hill toward the lakes in Forest Park.

Union Station and the Aquarium:

This was built after we left St. Louis and I haven’t personally visited but I hear good things.

Laumeier Sculpture Park:

Located west of the city, this is another free space to roam and explore the unique outdoor sculptures.

The Laumeier Sculpture Garden.

Missouri History Museum:

If you are looking for a quiet stop and want to learn a little more about the history of St. Louis, this is another great free activity. The kids area includes a fun, pretend play area with costumes highlighting some of the most relevant historical eras in St. Louis history. This is a nice quiet place if you are looking for something a little less over-stimulating and educational.

Grant’s Farm:

Originally owned by Ulysses S. Grant, later by the Anheuser-Busch company and now by the Busch family, Grant’s farm is home to the famous Clydesdale horse. They also offer a petting zoo where you can feed baby goats and many historical buildings.

Art Museum:

This is also free and nice to combine with some outdoor time on Art Hill (immediately in front of the museum). It is a nice manageable size for kids and our boys always loved the armour/weapons collection.

World Bird Sanctuary:

This is a wild card pick, but one of my personal favorites. It is a rehabilitation center for wild birds and they have an impressive collection of rehabilitated birds of prey. I love being able to closely observe the amazing birds of prey they house here. It is also a nice, manageable size for younger kids and in a pretty, forested habitat.

The Muny/The Fabulous Fox Theater:

If the timing is right, catch a show at one of the theaters in St. Louis. The Muny hosts outdoor shows in the summer. The upper rows are free and first come first served. If you want a closer seat, the prices aren’t too bad either.

The Crawdad pond in the center of Tower Grove Park.

Tower Grove park:

This park is part of the former estate of Henry Shaw and was donated to the city by his family. We lived just south of the park and it is the epicenter of our love for St. Louis. There are massive old trees throughout the park, walking paths, and two playgrounds. Our favorite area is the pond and adjacent faux ruins.

Gus with a couple big crawdads.

If you want to do something totally unique in St. Louis, go crawdad fishing in the pond. You can tie a chicken bone or cooked chicken leg to the end of a string on a stick and lower the string into the pond. When you slowly pull the chicken up, dozens of crawdads will be clinging to the end of the chicken. It’s a total frenzy! We usually just catch and release but some families take these guys home for dinner. Of all the things we did in St. Louis, this is the one memory that really stands the test of time for our kids. Sometimes the simplest things in life really are the best.

Picking and eating mulberries in Tower Grove Park.

Faust park, butterfly house, and carousel: St Louis has great parks and this is another one of them. The playground is fantastic. The park also houses some restored log cabins, a butterfly house, and an old-school carousel. It’s quaint and lovely.

There are others, but I am going to stop here since this post is getting quite long.

Where to eat:

*There are great upscale, unique dining options in St. Louis, but we had little kids when we lived there and didn’t have much money, so you should look elsewhere for those recommendations.

Lona’s Little Eats:

Founded by Lona, who is from the Yunnan region of China, where the food is a fusion between southern Chinese and northern Thai food, this is a fast casual spot with simple, but totally unique food. You can create your own dish by choosing wrap, meat, sauce, and toppings or go with a classic. Better yet, try the sampler. The sauces are the real highlight here. We eat here every time we are in St. Louis.

Pappy’s:

Quintessential St. Louis BBQ. They don’t take reservations and the lines can be big, so plan accordingly. You can try hitting it at an odd time, such at 4:00 for shorter waits or get it to go.

Dewey’s:

This is a regional pizza chain but they have solid, perfect pizza and we all love it. The kids love watching them make the pizzas through the glass window into the kitchen and it is a low stress dining experience with kids.

Pastaria:

Casual spot serving homemade, fresh pasta. While there are a few locations in other cities now, it started in St. Louis.

Fitz’s Root Beer:

classic St. Louis spot in the loop serving massive floats.

Katie’s Pizza and Pasta:

More fresh pasta and pizza! There are two locations now and the food is fresh and fantastic every time.

Anthonino's on The Hill:

The Hill neighborhood in St. Louis is an old Italian neighborhood and it still boasts several old-school Italian American restaurants. This is the one we ended up going back to time and time again and the best spot to sample St. Louis style “fried ravioli”.

IMO’s pizza:

I am not a fan, but it's worth trying once. If you want an idea of what St. Louis style pizza is like, stop in for a super thin crust pizza smothered in provel cheese.

The Brasserie:

French restaurant in the CWE. I love their brunch. Think classic French bistro with perfect fries, burgers, and croque madame. This is a little more upscale than the other options but still family friendly.

The Foundry:

Foodhall where there is something for everyone and you can sample some of the newer, local St. Louis cuisine. A lot of the most popular food trucks have a counter here and it is a good way to try some of the hottest local spots. (FYI, St. Louis loves food trucks)

Ted Drewes:

Classic St. Louis custard. Some claim that newer places are better, but I don’t agree. Custard is a thicker version of ice cream that is made with the addition of eggs. Choose your mix-ins and eat in the parking lot. The lines can be long, but they move fast.

Serendipity:

More refined, homemade ice cream.

Urban Chestnut Brewery:

I could write a whole post on St. Louis Breweries. Although Anheuser Busch got things started, the beer scene in St. Louis is diverse and top-notch. This is one that is spacious and serves good food as well, but there are so many others. Four Hands is another one of our favorites.

Coffee:

Sump:

We have all of our coffee shipped from Sump to Lexington. It is the best coffee. Scott, the founder and face of the brand, is a former lawyer who quit practicing law and dedicated himself to sourcing and roasting coffee beans. He specializes in single origin light roasts. If you are a coffee fanatic, like we are, stop in for a pour over and buy some beans to take home. Beware, they only serve coffee and coffee with milk, so this stop is really just for the adults.

Sump won best espresso in the country in 2015-2016.

Comet:

Since I have mentioned this several times already, you probably already know that this is my favorite coffee shop, period. They have a micro-bakery and some of the most delicious baked goods. They also make a perfect cortado. While Sump has the best beans, Comet is where the magic of perfectly frothed milk unites with meticulously made espresso to create the slightly sweet, rich, amazingness of a well-done cortado. They have delicious lattes with house made syrup as well and the kids will love their cookies.

Kaldi:

While Kaldi is a regional chain, and thus cannot match the consistent perfection achieved by the two shops mentioned above, they offer solid coffee and a more robust food selection. If you need to pop in somewhere for a boost and a bite, a Kaldi’s is always a good option. They are also credited with training a lot of the best baristas in St. Louis and being at the forefront for the development of St. Louis’s robust coffee scene.

Our house on Humphrey St. in the Tower Grove South neighborhood in St. Louis.

Final thoughts on St. Louis:

There is so much to do in St. Louis with kids. It’s affordable and accessible and family friendly. It’s so quintessentially American, in all the best ways. People still sit on their front porches. Big, Catholic families gather for dinner and meet up in the park for live music. People love BBQ and baseball and ice cream. They’re nice, but not fake. It holds a special place in our family and I hope this guide helps you create a magical trip for your family too!