48 hours on the Big Island, Hawaii: Volcanoes and their destructive, yet beautiful consequences
Table of Contents
Chain of Rocks Road, Hair Blowing, Back of the Truck, Volcanoes National Park, The Big Island
Should You Visit the Big Island?
When initially deciding which Hawaiian island to make our home for a month, we seriously considered the Big Island, or Hawaii as it is officially named. It is the youngest of the Hawaiian Islands and the one that is currently still forming by way of ongoing volcanic activity. In the end, we decided against the Big Island for three reasons: 1. There isn’t much good surfing there due to the steep, rocky shores. 2. The beaches are not as nice. 3. There are really fancy places to stay on the west coast and budget places to stay on the east coast, but not much in between. All of that being said, I really wanted to see an active volcano and there are not many better places in the world to see one than Hawaii, so an inter-island trip was always on my agenda.
Bailey Enjoying the Black Sand at Punalu'u Beach, The Big Island, Hawaii
When I checked the national park website on February 2nd, the Halema’uma’u crater was actively erupting. The lava lake in the crater has been filling since September 2021 and has intermittent cycles of activity. I wanted to catch it during a period of eruption and immediately started planning our trip. I am really glad I did, because the volcanoes and sequela of volcanic eruptions that you can see on Hawaii are unlike anything I have ever seen before. They’re crazy and massive and mind blowing. I highly recommend anyone traveling to Hawaii try to work in a few days to see the Big Island. To be honest, the island is overall my least favorite of the 4 islands I have visited and I would not plan on spending more than 4 or 5 days there, but the volcanoes alone are worth it.
Inter-Island Travel
Southwest Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines both offer flights between the Hawaiian islands. Hawaiian Airlines offers direct flights between all of the islands. Southwest flies direct from Honolulu to Kauai, Maui, and the Big Island but doesn’t offer direct flights between the other islands. If you want to travel to Lanai or Molokai, you have to use Hawaiian Airlines. I personally love Southwest. I think they are the most reliable and efficient airline and I love traveling with them.
Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii from the Southwest Flight to Honolulu
Since moving to Lexington, KY and away from the Southwest hub of St. Louis, my Southwest credit card miles have been accumulating for the past 5 years. This ended up being an amazing boon for us and has made inter island travel essentially free and unbelievably easy. By flying on weekdays, we have avoided airport crowds and each had our own row on most of the flights that are shockingly empty. We left most of our luggage at our home base in Ewa Beach and packed light for our inter island travel. Getting aerial views of all of the islands has been an added bonus.
Pro-tip: Fly Southwest on weekdays between the islands if you can!
Rental Cars in Hawaii: Go with Turo
Having a car is essential when traveling on any of the Hawaiian islands. Many destinations are far apart and Uber/Lyft are very unreliable here. We have converted 100% to Turo and you should too. Here is why.
The Lifted 4x4 Toyota Tacoma from Turo. Essential for summitting Mauna Kea
It’s cheaper.
It’s easier. Not dealing with rental car lines and counters has greatly improved our airport efficiency. I still have PTSD from 2 hour rental car lines with 3 young kids and am happy to avoid repeating that at all cost.
There is a wider selection of cars.
On the Big Island, I highly recommend renting a car with legit 4 wheel drive and this was easier to find on Turo.
Pro-tip: make sure the car you choose on Turo delivers to the airport.
Some renters add an extra fee for airport delivery and this should be considered when evaluating the cost of each car. Don’t make the mistake we did in Hilo and rent a car that requires you to pay for a Lyft/Uber to pick it up elsewhere.
Where to stay: Kailua-Kona (West Coast) or Hilo (East Coast)?
Kailua-Kona
Vibe: resorts, tourists, beaches
Pros: nicer beaches, snorkeling, more sun, and Kona coffee
Cons: 2 hours from Volcanoes national park, expensive
Hilo
Vibe: locals, laid-back, budget
Pros: proximity to Volcanoes National Park, cheaper, local experience
Cons: rocky shores, rough surf, poverty and homelessness, rainy weather
In conclusion, stay in Kailua-Kona if you want to be at a resort on the beach. Stay in Hilo if you want to see volcanoes. Since my only objective for traveling to the Big Island was to see volcanoes, we stayed in Hilo.
What about staying in Volcanoes (the small town outside the park), Naalehu, or other small towns on the big island? Unless you plan to grocery shop in Hilo and prepare all of your own meals at home, I wouldn’t. These towns have little to no amenities, nothing going on, and are completely dead and dark after 6:00 PM.
Where to stay in Hilo
Where to Stay in Hilo
Arnott’s lodge:
Arnotts Lodge in Hilo Hawaii
This is a budget accommodation with an international hostel feel (basic room at Arnotts starts around $140/night). There are private rooms with common areas for travelers to congregate. We rented a two bedroom unit here. It was spacious at 750 square feet and had a decent kitchen (stove, microwave, coffee pot, small fridge, basic dishes) but was bare bones (concrete walls, small beds, no decorations). The place seemed to be completely empty during our stay, so we didn’t get to reap the benefits of the communal traveler experience. Additionally, it is in an industrial area with overall unpleasant surroundings.
The “Movie Theater” at Arnott’s Lodge
We did enjoy being very close (5 minute walk) to a nearby “beach”. “Beach” is a very loose term on the Big Island, and, by my assessment, means “a place where you have a chance of safely entering the water.” This “beach” ended up being our favorite on the Big Island and had some cool tide pools, volcanic black rocks, sea turtles, and even a hidden swimming hole.
Overall, this is a decent place to stay if you are looking for budget accommodations. Just set your expectations appropriately.
There are several other hotels in Hilo. We didn’t get a chance to check them out, but I wouldn’t expect anything too fancy out of this town. There is a Doubletree by Hilton, which is all they have in the way of well-known chain hotels, and several 2-3 star locally owned hotels.
Our Itinerary
Day 1
Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles at Punalu’u Beach Laying in the Black Sand
2:00 PM: Landed in Hilo
3:00 PM: Checked into Arnott’s Lodge
3:15 PM: Headed south to see the black sand beach at Punaluu
A Black Chaco on the Black Sand of Punalu’u
4:30 PM-6:00 PM: Punaluu Beach—This is an actual beach which is known for green sea turtles that rest on the beach, black sand, and decent snorkeling when the surf is low. There are natural springs that flow into the ocean out of the lava rocks,creating a beautiful scene. It was cloudy and the surf was rough so we couldn’t snorkel, but the black sand was mesmerizing and we saw 3 sea turtles sleeping on the beach. I did have to “Karen” some people drinking beer and getting too close to the sea turtles here. Don’t disrupt these peaceful creatures and stay over 10 feet away at all times. Of note, there is nowhere to buy food or beverages near the beach, so pack your own.
A Kona Porter at the Most Southern Bar in the USA, Shaka Restaurant, Naalehu, Big Island, Hawaii
6:00 PM: Attempted to get dinner in Naalehu and failed because everything was closed. We did convince the lady at the Southside Shaka Restaurant and Bar (which was supposed to close at 8:00) to serve us a drink before heading north towards Volcanoes National Park
7:00 PM: Dinner at Thai Thai Bistro in Volcano—As the only restaurant that was open within 30 minutes of Volcanoes National Park, this place was packed on a Tuesday evening and there was a 30 minute wait. Several of the people we had seen at Punaluu were also trying to get a table there. Even though they technically close at 8:00, we barely got a table and they were sure to mention that we were going to be the last table of the night. The food was excellent. The fish curry and Thai basil eggplant were amazing! If it isn't too packed, this is a great place to grab dinner before a night viewing of the volcano.
8:30 PM: Nightime viewing of the Halema’ua’u Crater from the Kilauea Lookout in Volcanoes national park. Unfortunately, the volcano was in a period of relative inactivity and all we could see was a dim red glow. The stars and sky, however, were amazing. It had been cloudy and drizzling all day and cleared up just before we got to the park.
9:30 PM: Bailed on night hiking 2 miles to the Keanakako’i lookout due to the relative inactivity of the volcano and our kids' protests. We opted to do the hike the next day instead and I am still not sure if this was the right decision. If we ever go back, I won’t be so soft, and we will do this at night.
10:15 PM: Arrived back at Arnott’s lodge and headed to bed.
Day 2
The Secret Swimming Hole Near Arnott’s at Chalk’s “Beach”
8:00-10:00 AM: Explored the beach by our hotel, Chalk’s beach, while the kids did math and reading.
10:00-11:00 AM: Breakfast at The Booch Bar in Hilo—Small Cafe with delicious, cooked to order breakfast with a variety of options and kombucha on tap. The kombucha flight sampler was excellent and the Olena Mana Jun may be the best kombucha I have ever tasted. Even the kids liked that one.
The Hilo Farmers Market on Kamehameha in Hilo, Big Island Hawaii
11:00-11:15 AM: Hilo farmers market—Colorful farmers market open 7 days a week in downtown Hilo. This is worth a stop for some fresh fruit for the road and the visually pleasing stalls. We picked up Longans and tried “Chinese pretzels”. These were delicious and more like a small, crispy funnel cake. You will want to bring food with you if you plan to spend the day in Volcanoes National Park and can pick something up here. According to the super friendly Southwest gate agent that checked us in, KTA is reportedly another good option for getting food for the road, but we didn’t get around to checking it out.
A Chinese Pretzel, Unforgettable, Like Funnel Cake but Lighter
12:00-6:30 PM: Volcanoes National Park
Bailey Contemplating the Kilauea Iki Crater
Stops 1-4: Crater Rim Road
Stop 1: Kilauea Iki overlook (10 minutes)—Stop along Crater Rim Road to marvel at the large crater that erupted in 1959 leaving a large barren wasteland behind.
Stop 2: Kilauea Iki trail hike to crater floor (1 hour)—3.3 mile loop trail that takes you down to and across the crater floor and back up to the rim. With 400 feet of elevation change, the whole loop would probably take 2 hours. Since we only had one day to explore the park, we didn’t want to dedicate that much time to one hike. Instead of doing the full loop, we parked at the Thurston Lava Tube parking lot, hiked down to the crater floor and hiked back up the same trail to the parking lot, which was about 2.4 miles total and took about 1 hour. It was worth it to see the vast wasteland of the crater floor and a nice hike through a lush forest.
Stop 3: Nahuku (Thurston) Lava tube (20 minutes)—quick, paved walk through a giant lava tube. This one has lights and handrails and is accessible to all. It’s worth the quick stop to see and learn about the lava tubes, but heavily trafficked.
The Halema’uma’u Crater from the Keanakako’i Overlook
Stop 4: Keanakako’i Overlook (1 hour)—This is the closest you can get to the Halema’uma’u crater, the only crater in Kilauea that is currently actively erupting. Park at Devastation Trail parking lot and walk 1 mile down Old Crater Rim Road, which was partially destroyed in the eruption of 2018 and now open to pedestrian traffic only (2 miles total out and back). The volcano started erupting again that morning, so we got to see some active lava movement. This is the hike we bailed on the night before.
The Lava Flows into the Ocean from The Chain of Rocks Road, Volcanoes National Park
Stop 5-7: Chain of Rocks Road (2 hours total)—A scenic dead end road that terminates at the ocean where the lava flow of 2018 covered and closed the road beyond. Driving down this road was the coolest part of the park. Seeing the vastness of the fields of hardened lava was mind-blowing. We stopped at the lookout to appreciate the view and then drove to the end of the road and worked our way back, stopping along the way.
Stop 5: Kealakomo lookout, Chain of Rocks Road (10 minutes)—a quick overlook to get out of the car and take in the vast fields of hardened lava leading down to the edge of the sea.
The Holei Sea Arch at the End of Chain of Rocks Road, VOlcanoes National Park
Stop 6: Holei Sea Arch at the end of Chain of Rocks road (20 minutes)— A short walk from the parking lot down the closed portion of the road to a small sea arch. The arch itself is a little underwhelming but the view of the ocean and lava flows make this stop worth it. It’s also a fun spot to run around and climb on the lava rocks. You can continue walking down this road to see where the lava flow of 2018 covered and closed the road permanently. We were running out of time and had to skip the extra mile long walk to the end of the road.
Stop 7: Pu’uloa Petroglyphs (1 hour)—A fun, 1.4 mile out and back, hike through an older lava flow to a sacred site for the Hawaiian people where you can see extensive petroglyphs carved/drawn into the rocks. If you are into anthropology, this is an interesting stop. Even if you are not, it is a pleasant path through the lava rocks. It is fully exposed to the sun, so we timed things to do this one just before sunset.
6:30 PM: ride back up Chain of Rocks road in the back of a pick up truck at sunset—Magic.
Chain of Rocks Road in the Back of the Pick Up Truck, Magical, Volcanoes National Park
7:15 PM: Dinner at Hilo Bay Cafe—Higher end restaurant serving standard seafood and continental fare with views of Hilo across the bay. This restaurant is top-notch and our favorite so far in Hawaii. Everything was perfectly prepared and the chocolate chip cookie dessert was warm and gooey and delicious. I was able to get a reservation just two days before, but I would recommend booking at least a few days in advance to secure your table here.
9:15 PM: return to Arnott’s and unwind
Day 3
5:30 AM: wake up and drive to the Summit of Mauna Kea for Sunrise
Pre-Sunset Drive Up Mauna Kea past the Visitors Center to the Summit, Big Island, Hawaii
6:45-7:30 AM: Sunrise on Mauna Kea—With a summit at 13,803 feet above sea level and another 19,697 feet of elevation under the ocean, Mauna Kea is the largest mountain in the world by the measure of dry prominence (base to summit). The largest by total land mass is it’s neighbor, Mauna Loa, which peaks out at 13,679 feet above sea level and is a few hundred thousand years younger. These two massive volcanoes make up the midsection of the Big Island. You can easily drive to the visitor center on either mountain for nice views and good stargazing at around 7,000 feet, but the truly epic experience is driving to one of the summits. Based on reviews of each, we chose to summit Mauna Kea instead of Mauna Loa. There are not many roads that will take you from sea level to 13,803 feet in 1 hour. Beware. This is a massive change in altitude and can cause serious altitude sickness.
The Sunrise Shadow of Mauna Kea with Observatories in the Foreground
Due to the steep and sustained grade of this road, 4 wheel drive is essential. The combination of the thrill of driving up this steep road along the side of a mountain, seeing the sunrise above the clouds, the shock of the extreme cold when stepping out of the car, the otherworldly appearance of the summit with its Subaru and Gemini observation stations, and slight oxygen deprivation made this experience truly out of this world. If you think you can take the altitude and aren’t afraid of driving along the edge of a mountain, do this drive! See our post on Mauna Kea at Sunrise for more specifics.
10:00 AM: Carlsmith Beach Park—again, “beach” is a very loose term on the Big Island. There are places to hang out on a grassy lawn that abuts the ocean, but no sand here. This is a very unique place where several fresh water springs empty into a protected ocean bay. The mixing of the extremely cold fresh water from the springs and the warmer ocean water creates the craziest thermoclines I have ever experienced. While snorkeling, you could visibly see the swirling water of the thermoclines. When I first entered the water, I wasn’t sure what was happening. Due to the lower density of the freshwater, the freezing cold freshwater layers on top of the salt water. It was hard to see in the freshwater as it seemed to be constantly swirling around. In order to see clearly and stay warm, you had to dive down and snorkel in the warmer ocean water. It also seemed like swimming through the water was disrupting the thermoclines and causing more swirling, which resulted in a visible trail of swirling water behind other snorkelers/swimmers. It was insane!
We were able to swim alongside a massive sea turtle and see some decent fish, but overall this was not a great place for snorkeling. The water was way too cold and the thermoclines created visibility issues. That being said, experiencing the thermoclines alone made this stop worth it.
Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle in a Tidal Pool at Chalks Beach Hilo, Big Island, Hawaii
Secret Swimming Hole at Chalks Beach near Arnott’s in Hilo, Big Island, Hawaii
12:30 PM: swimming in the hidden swimming hole at Chalk’s Beach—We were all freezing after our experience as Carlsmith beach and Joey and I wanted to show the kids the magical little pool we had found hidden in the black lava rocks at Chalk’s beach so we squeezed in a quick swim before our 1:00 PM extended check out. If we had it to do over, we would have given ourselves more time here and less time at Carlsmith.
1:00 PM: check out of Arnott’s lodge
1:15-2:30 PM: Lunch at Cafe Pesto—cafe along the main road in Hilo with mediocre, overpriced food. I would skip this one.
2:30-3:00 PM: Kula Shave Ice—shave ice stand at the edge of the Hilo Farmers market. Their shave ice is made with real fruit syrup and has a thicker consistency than most other shave ice stands. I haven’t met a shave ice I didn’t like and I recommend giving this one a try. There are several other food stands nearby and I wish we would have eaten here instead of the overpriced Cafe Pesto.
3:00-3:30 PM: Two Ladies Bakery—tiny bakery that serves handmade mochi. Mochi in Hawaii isn’t the same as the frozen, ice-cream filled stuff we get at Whole Foods. Here, it is served at room temperature and filled with one of several varieties of traditional bean paste +/- fresh fruit. It is worth trying, but none of us love it. If you are curious, this bakery is a great place to give it a try. Seeing all of the elaborate and colorful creations was pleasant and interesting. The service was friendly and they even gave us an extra strawberry mochi for free.
3:30-4:30 PM: Rainbow Falls—impressive waterfall just outside of Hilo that often creates a rainbow in the morning hours. Unfortunately, the short trail that leads to the top of the falls and under a massive Banyan tree was closed and we had to view the falls from the lookout. We walked up the road a bit to get a look at the huge tree above the falls as well. This is a nice quick stop and I liked reading the story of the legend of the falls and “boiling pots” above the falls.
5:00 PM: Arrive at airport for flight back to Honolulu
Trip Recap
Total hours on the Big Island: 52
Total miles hiked: 9
Total miles driven: 322
Total elevation change: 13,803
Number of restaurants sampled: 7
Number of mind blowing sites: 5
Number of magical moments: 3
Rainbow Falls in Hilo, Big Island, Hawaii
Our Top 5 things to do on the Big Island, in order
Drive to the summit of Mauna Kea for sunset or sunrise
See lava in the Halema’ua’u crater
Drive the Chain of rocks road to see the massive hardened fields of lava and give yourself plenty of time to stop along the way (consider doing it in the back of a pickup truck if possible)
Hike into the Kilauea Ike crater
See a black sand beach
Tips for the Big Island
Rent a car with legit 4 wheel drive (we recommend Turo).
Grab food in Hilo before heading south to Volcanoes or Punaluu because there are very limited amenities there.
Check the latest lava viewing info before heading to the park. See the website below for up to date info. https://www.lovebigisland.com/big-island-lava-viewing/
Pack warm clothes and a rain coat because it rains 260 days a year in Hilo and the Summit of Mauna Kea was 19 degrees Farenheit when we visited at sunrise.
Give yourself 2 days to explore Volcanoes National Parks in order to view the crater in the day and at night.
Final Thoughts on the Big Island
I recommend adding the Big Island to your Hawaii itinerary in order to experience the epic and awesome volcanoes there! I can’t compare the Kailua-Kona side to other Hawaiian Islands, but I wouldn’t pick the windward coast of the Big Island if you are looking for a luxury beach vacation. Share your favorite things and experience on the Big Island in the comment section below!
